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Baking Challah – The New York Times


On a recent early morning, before sunrise, around 6:30 a.m., you could feel like you were falling through the air in New York City. It’s appropriate and in between, when the light fades but you can still buy tomatoes and peaches at the market, wear short sleeves.

A colleague described the days in between these days as a time when we engage in “debris of the summer ritual,” final BLT and beach days, while in the same moment , began to observe the rites of autumn.

In anticipation of one of those rituals, Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, which begins on September 25 this year, I did challah for the first time recently. I’ve skipped the 2020 sourdough craze, so I’ll be late to enjoy the comfort and rewards of bread making.

I assumed do challah it’s going to be tough – it’s so rich and impressively ornate – but it’s nice to know that it’s a good starter bread without a stand mixer and no initial babysitting . “If you’re curious about bread but don’t know where to start, start here,” writes Claire Saffitz in “The Only Challah Recipe You’ll Ever Need. “

My friend Aliza, who makes Shabbat’s Friday challah, advises me to knead the dough “until it’s as soft as a baby’s pie” and to make sure I let the dough rise enough. “Then it’s really about sharing it with people you love or people you’re welcoming into your home,” she says. “And that just feels so good it tastes better.”

I impressed myself with two shiny, braided loaves that taste as good as they look. I sent photos to my friends, they asked when I would invite them over for bread. I am considering a fall bread-making ritual, a practice that will give me a good reason to gather people together, as a regular thing throughout the changing seasons. I will do tomato sandwich with it now, then with soup and beans when it gets colder.

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After a humid summer of eating mostly salads for dinner, I feel mentally ready for better, more satisfying food. But with temperatures forecast into the 80s in New York this weekend, I don’t want to crank up the oven for long braised meats or slow simmering stews. One Thai Pork is the perfect solution and it comes together in a flash. Caramelized ground pork and toasted rice flour give it richness and depth; A variety of herbs, shallots and passion fruit juice give the dish a light and bright flavor. Pork not your thing? You can use ground turkey, chicken, or even tofu instead. It is the combination of fresh chili, coriander and fish sauce that makes the dish.

A selection of New York Times recipes is available to all readers. Please consider it Register to cook for full access.

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Thank you for spending part of the weekend on The Times. – Melissa

Correction: Image captions in yesterday’s newsletter do not adequately refer to Representatives Abigail Spanberger and Chip Roy. They are sponsors of a House bill to restrict trading in congressional shares; they are not among the legislators who have reported transactions in companies affected by the committees they are on.

Lauren Hard, Claire Moses, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Tom Wright-Piersanti and Ashley Wu contributed to The Morning. You can contact the team at themorning@nytimes.com.

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