Food tour through Edinburgh, Scotland, Part 1

Susan Kime

We have been to Edinburgh before – ten years ago. It was a rain stop. But this time, in sunny June this year, we live in Edinburgh’s New Town– but is it NEW? Nothing. Construction of the New City of Edinburgh began in the 1700s. And conversely, the Old Town, another part of Edinburgh, began construction in the 7th century AD, with the foundations of Edinburgh Castle being laid. placed earlier, in AD 500 or there. It continues to help define the meaning of OLD in the Old Town, as well as other pubs and graveyards – including a tombstone in a parking lot, now the final resting place of John Knox, founder of the House Scottish Presbyterian worship. Mr. Knox’s resting place is just below parking lot 23, near St. Giles; The parking lot was once a graveyard. He passed in 1572. Tempus Fugits.

But even in New Town, one cannot go beyond the meaning of C. On Princes Street, past the glorious Princes Gardens, and from most parts of the New Town, is the current view of Edinburgh Castle, a constant reminder of Edinburgh’s ancestral roots. We are part of that ancestry, as in the mists of time my great-grandfather was an Armstrong, part of a vibrant lowland clan that even had its own Tartan.

During our travels to Edinburgh, it was a rare moment when we didn’t look up to see the ancient image of Edinburgh Castle, always wondering if our ancestor William Armstrong would approve of the cause. why we come to Edinburgh, to taste the food, see if we can enjoy Haggis, Scotland’s national dish.

Brittanica – Classic Haggis.

Made from the liver, heart and lungs of a sheep, minced and mixed with beef or lamb and oatmeal, wrapped in a sheep’s stomach and boiled, we wondered if we would see it. palatable, much less digestible no. We hoped there was more to a Scottish taste, and that’s it: we searched, we found. During our two weeks and one day in Edinburgh, we tasted things we never had before. When we lived in New Town, we started there – and looked for the unexpected – and found it – the first experience was a downstairs restaurant called Eat and chat, a restaurant for food. We looked at the menu and found it tempting, although we had to find out what sea buckthorn is, and its companion, sea buckthorn ice cream, on the menu.

Susan Kime

And, we want to know what Blue Murder tastes like, since it’s on the menu too. It’s a native Scottish Blue cheese from Tain, Scotland, named after a popular song by the New Order (UK rock band). We tasted it — it was strong, buttery, spicy and had a slight bitter malt finish, which we found unusual. Furthermore, we tried Islay Oyster word Loch Gruinart, near Oman, caught that day, flavored with Lemon Dill Oil or Spicy Pancetta. We ate both, then tasted ravioli celeriac, violet Gnocchi and Hispi Cabbage, which have flavors of hazelnuts, Lanark White (cheese) and cauliflower, giving the cabbage a strange but sweet sour taste.

Because of its foraging, contrasting, yet fresh taste with no preservatives, I only drink Edinburgh water that still has the sweet taste that only the purest has. The palate has been cleared, and we have forged, not food.

Dishoom – The next day, culinary contrasts in taste, spice and philosophy with Forage and Chatter are Dishoom, a famous Indian restaurant on Princes Street. As we’ve been to India before, we’re curious how meaty Scots mix with spicy Indian vegetarian dishes.

Susan Kime – Dining Rules at Dishoom.

Somehow it worked. Dishoom is NOT vegetarian, although on the menu one may have vegetarian or vegan dishes. In the morning my friend had the Wrestler’s breakfast, full of sausages, ham, bacon, eggs, beans, all washed down with spicy Masala Chai tea. It was a huge spread, and although we don’t usually eat breakfast, we survived with the vegetarian samosas, and the wonderful Naan and Roti, served hot and puffy, straight from their Tandoori and the Other ovens have extra Masala Chai. Dishoom food seems difficult to eat and spicy, showing the character in the warm space of South Asian food culture.

But in Dishoom, unlike other eateries in Scotland or anywhere, there is something unusual and memorable: a large sign on the wall – no doubt from the time of the British Raj when England was ruled India, about the rules to be followed while eating. Thankfully, we never thought about clipping our nails, jingling coins or dropping decorations while we ate – just three rules out of many.

Scran & Scallie – Scallop Mull with celeriac, green apple & bacon

Scran & Scallie – Away from Princes Street, in Stockbridge, a small village and near a river called the Water of Leith, is the famous Gastro Tavern, The Scran & Scallie. It’s known for having one of the most innovative kitchens in Edinburgh, and it’s not surprising that it tastes the best, for us, delicious Haggis on this trip — it tasted like as a mild, bearable and memorable livery,

Scran & Scallie has a varied menu with extensive Scottish/UK native dishes. Three is Lindisfarne Oysters, comes from Lindisfarne, also known as Holy Island, a tidal island off the northeastern coast of England. We tried them – sweet, refreshing, soothing. They taste the sea, not a bivalve mollusk. Then there’s the Lobster from Newhaven – from the Edinburgh Newhaven fish market founded in the 18th century. Then, when in season, Scallop Island, served with celeriac, green apple and bacon. Then there are cheeses from IJ Mellis Cheesemongers– a street cheese vendor in Stockbridge who creates unique cheeses for our American palate, including a cousin to Blue Murder: Hebridean and Lanark Blue Cheese, plus other white and rennet cheeses. Finally, the names Scran and Scallie mean joy and food in Scottish slang. Definitely appropriate.

Susan Kime -A Classic Negroni

Buck’s Trip: This is another Scottish specialty pub, but with a unique history.

William “Buck” Clarence lived in this house from 1900 to 1935. Born in 1864, Buck was educated in Edinburgh and Cambridge. Buck left London and began touring around India, however, after many adventures around the world, Buck returned to Scotland in 1900, where he supported music and theatre.

His home has become a restaurant, but he is remembered by its cocktail menu, which showcases the flavors, emotions, and people Buck encountered during his many travels. Here are just two examples out of many.

Are from Venice:

The Air Express: Violet infused Edinburgh Gin, Cocchi Americano vermouth, maraschino, premium citrus, with almond fragrance

The Chocolate Orange Espresso Martini – Orange wine with vodka Finlandia, cold beer, dark chocolate, aqua faba.

Peach and basil – Sour Mayfield gin, Sipsmith lemon drizzle gin, citrus, peach and basil, aqua faba

Are from Shanghai

Black Opium Negroni Fords Gin, Campari, Antica Formula, Poppy Seed Liqueur

Shanghai lily –Blueberry infused with Benriach 10 smokeless whiskey, Buck watermelon and coriander, citrus, aqua faba

It is said that one must taste the food of a culture to understand it — but one must also be open to new tastes. Recalling such things, we see Scotland with a keen awareness of the variability of food and drink and a commitment to farm-to-table authenticity.

With diverse palates and flavor combinations creating even newer taste experiences, every day while in Edinburgh we repeat this mantra: we can go on a diet when we return to the United States of America. – but not in Edinburgh, and certainly Not today.

Susan Kime

Herbs/Leaf Salad, Food and Chat

Susan Kime

Parkng Lot John Knox’s Tombstone.

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