Jeanne Lanvin was just 22 years old when she opened a hat shop in Paris at 16 rue Boissy d’Anglas in 1889. From her original children’s clothing factory, Lanvin launched in 1908, from the decision launching a women’s line a year later until the 1927 release of the iconic fragrance Arpège, the house is far from lacking in archival materials and inspiration.
China-based Lanvin Group, which also controls Wolford, St. John and Sergio Rossi, have owned the brand since 2018 and in 2019 Bruno Sialelli joined Lanvin as creative director after two years as a menswear designer at Loewe. The 35-year-old Sialelli – who has given the label a huge boost and is gaining fans in Hollywood – grew up in Marseille in the south of France, and although he is a young creative director most ever to run the company, he certainly respects it’s legacy.
“Jeanne Lanvin was ahead of her time and created what is essentially the first lifestyle brand, with children’s clothing, fragrances, sportswear, furs, furniture and men’s looks. world,” said Sialelli. “I want to restore Mrs. Lanvin’s go-to vision.”
That idea extends to the way celebrities dress. Marlene Dietrich and Rita Hayworth are among the actresses who have had their makeovers personally done by Jeanne Lanvin, and recently Sialelli has been tapping into star power on her own. To the May Met Gala, Claire Danes wore a ruffled yellow gown from the finale of his Fall/Winter 2022 collection, while Jesse James Keitel wore a pastel pink lace gown from the same show to Queer as Folk released in June.
“Bruno killed it with everything he was doing,” says star stylist Jason Bolden, who dressed Cynthia Erivo and DeWanda Wise in Lanvin.
Meanwhile, an art deco print pulled from the archives and used throughout the collection in ready-to-wear and accessories, became one of the season’s biggest hits. . It’s all part of “using silhouettes from the past to the present,” says Sialelli. “I don’t think I’ll be the type of designer to invent new fabrics or shades. Instead, I want to combine elements and classes that have never been seen together. I intend to re-imagine the forgotten elements of Jeanne Lanvin’s archives. ”
This story first appeared in The Hollywood Reporter September 16th issue. Click here to subscribe.