Luar’s Raul Lopez knew we were hungry for a performer, so he gave us that. On Sunday night at The Shed, hundreds of fans and family members flocked to the door to witness the designer’s spring/summer 2023 show, titled “La Alta Gama” ” (roughly translated: “class”), in reference to the song Rochey RD. same name.
Born and raised in Los Sures, the predominantly Dominican neighborhood of Williamsburg, Lopez would gather with her immigrant family monthly in one of their apartments for a reunion — a wonderful thing, as Lopez described to me — to stay in touch and commit to finding each other in their foreign surroundings. The designer will be watching his family from the couch, hidden like a turtle in his shell, a “super pompous gay guy with a high-pitched voice.”
The moment that inspired this season’s collection came when his aunts ran inside, layered old Spyder jackets over slit skirts, and tossed their coats on the bed before join the party. As Lopez says, “oversized coats have nothing to do with evening wear, but really do make the most sense.” The mix of highs and lows, entertainment and charm, community and family, has defined what we officially call the season’s knockout show (so far, that is).
More from ELLE
Lopez is first and foremost a designer by designer. Martine Rose and Telfar took the front row to testify to his strange mind, one that blends numerous references from the classic fierceness of Mary J. Blige New York to Michael Kors, who up until today defines America’s sportswear, for his family and the community around him. The opening look is his creation of the aforementioned party moment, with a patchwork tracksuit and a brown slit dress combining to create his version of modern chic. The dress had to go through eight different iterations to get it right, and this attention to detail followed through on other glamorous silhouettes, combining floral fabric with sequin details that never felt too overwhelming. strength.
Elsewhere, Lopez’s leisurely tracksuit has found new heights with hyper-exaggerated “turtle-like” shoulders he talks about hiding in, observing the world from a corner seat. mine. Sharp-cut leather jackets, sturdy denim shirts and maxi dresses are ready for the street and boardroom, with his signature Ana bag inflated to match. large and small sizes. Oversized sunglasses and chunky heels complete each look, along with dramatic floral and furry hats that harken back to the glam he grew up in— “the age that makes it work, looks good. like Latina Elizabeth Taylor.”
This sportswear comes from decades of industry defining and redefining trends, while remaining family-friendly. It’s refreshing to have a designer who matches himself and is committed to bringing his vision to a new generation who, like himself, are coming to this city with hopes and visions of a better future. brighter tomorrow.
Passion for fashion, glamor, drama and community was highlighted last night, especially as the models entered the finale and Lopez emerged with her niece. For someone who felt so lost in his childhood, he became his own, while honoring his childhood self, who was too scared to speak. When I met Lopez at his studio, we talked about how putting on your riding blindfolds and moving on is the only way to see your own back. He seems to be watching it well.
Kevin LeBlanc is a Fashion Contributor at ELLE Magazine. He covers fashion news, trends and anything related to Robyn Rihanna Fenty.