Come in Selkie’s The Spring/Summer 2023 show venue is like taking part in a no-repentance celebration with all shapes, sizes, and forms of femininity. Not only because of the cast, but the audience itself is a true testament to the charisma of the cult brand that founder Kimberley Gordon has created. At any other fashion event, you might see a few celebrities in the front row wearing the brand’s clothing. But in Selkie’s second appearance in New York Fashion WeekAlmost everyone wears something from the line, and the styles are incredibly diverse: there’s the right gothic look, full of life. Lolitastyle makeup and luxurious costumes.
Gordon told us about the Selkie community, the day before the show took place last weekend at the 99 Scott industrial site in Brooklyn. For the occasion, sheer pink fabric hangs over every window and sunlight hits the concrete floor in shady rays, making the space feel like a secret hideaway from a horror movie. Since Selkie started, Gordon has made it his mission to offer every product up to 5X in size. “I have always been surrounded and attracted to women,” she said. “And I think that’s a real reflection of the inside of the brand.”
The Selkie Spring/Summer 2023 show is certainly not only the most multi-size runway show in all of NYFW, but also perhaps the one that respects femininity the most — with ruffles. ruffles, bows, ruffles, oversized collars and pockets that resemble pillows. Not a single model wears pants! Gordon was inspired by the movie The Last Unicorn and honor it with a collection that extracts eerie vibes and transforms them into sandy road clothes that go down the runway. “My idea of The Last Unicorn This girl who lives in the city doesn’t know she’s a unicorn,” she said. “Or maybe she is the daughter of the last unicorn. She’s like an outsider, someone who never feels like they fit in, but dresses wild and free. “
Gordon launched Selkie to the world in 2018, after previously creating the casually feminine brand Wildfox, a favorite among trendy girls in the Tumblr era, known for their tissue-thin t-shirts. and t-shirts with bizarre pictures and drawings. She studied cinema and drew much of her inspiration from that kind of storytelling, which led to the creation of collections inspired by everything from vampires to ’60s icons. find a way to tell a story, because fashion for me is more than just clothes – it’s like you suddenly put on characters.”
Selkie was born with Puff skirtand several other staples that have a completely feminine feel and are designed with women in mind. The puffy dress, in all its glory, is a super-short, slightly voluminous, and extremely voluminous dress with a strong empire waist, which Selkie has reinterpreted from the start, in all everything from rainbow colors to cloud veins and embossed patterns on Marie Antoinette.
“When I started the company, I was doing everything in Los Angeles, and I had a dream to make princess-like dresses,” says Gordon. “There is still something really romantic about that silhouette, and its history is really interesting. The history of babydolls is generally part of feminism. ” Ever since the brand’s puffy dress emerged, it’s been popular TikTok and fast-fashion knockoffs appeared, but the silhouette was inherently key to the brand’s defining aesthetic, even as the dress was ubiquitous. “The style of this empire belt will always be the traditional Selkie style,” says Gordon.
It’s one of the least-scale seasons of fashion week in years, and in many ways it feels like we’re going backwards when the brands with the biggest names and, therefore, impact, don’t. Efforts were made to select at least one model that did not fit into the traditional fashion size category. That’s one of the reasons why Selkie has attracted such a crowd this season and last year: “When I started the company, I knew I wanted to be inclusive in terms of scale. ,” said Gordon. “But for me that means having shadows that can really be worn all over the world. I realized, I have to look at myself. Like, what is my claustrophobia? What is my story? Why didn’t I do it before with my first brand? I think a lot of us have such severe agoraphobia, that we haven’t seen it there since childhood. “
It’s not about being seen, it’s about looking at yourself [and] Take up space in your own life. “
In addition to the holistic aspect, Selkie’s brand offers a deep sense of nostalgia that so many of us are craving right now. We live in an era where our culture is obsessed with dolls, comes in all different forms, and Selkie embodies it: “Pulling on this big puffy dress creates a really interesting figure and it’s very doll-like,” says Gordon of the appeal of the dress. Puff skirt. “A lot of women want to dress this way, I think they liked dolls, either when they were little. There is something lovely about touching this childhood memory or nostalgia.”
What else about Selkie’s dream dresses? They take up space, and a lot, which is a powerful move in the age of women in 2022. It is not uncommon for you to knock something over in a crowded space while wearing one and also it’s likely that you’ll take up more than one seat in a puffy dress. “When you put it on, you’re taking up more space,” says Gordon. “But not to be seen, but to look at myself [and] Take up space in your own life. A lot of us, I think, feel we have to hide, and there have been times in my life where I just wanted to disappear, and I just really hope to change that feeling towards women in general. “
It’s clear that Selkie is giving fashion week a much needed take. Perhaps the only thing missing from the Selkie universe is the age variety on the runway. Sure enough, there were many older women in gorgeous big dresses in the front row. Perhaps the brand’s stylish girl status also stems from its celebratory vibes. The pandemic only really feels like it recently ended, and wearing a shockingly feminine dress is a powerful statement in the everyday context.
“When they put on that dress, they feel like they want to cry or celebrate,” says Gordon. “I had a girl on the show that I don’t think ever dressed like that; she is very shy. And when she looks in the mirror, she has to look back and forth.” Perhaps the most exciting thing of all is being dressed to feel completely, unabashedly, to celebrate girlhood.
Kristen Bateman is a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Her first fashion article was published in Vogue Italia during her junior year of high school. Since then, she has interned and contributed to WWD, Glamor, Lucky, iD, Marie Claire and more. She creates and writes the #ChicEats column and covers fashion and culture for Bazaar. When not writing, she keeps track of the latest runway collections, dyes her hair to suit her mood, and practices Italian in hopes of hitting 90% off Prada in Tuscan stores. She loves shopping for vintages, desserts, and cats.